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The Winter Tradition of Korean Barbecue : Nanrohoe
Beef has always been considered a delicious food, but its flavor reaches its peak in winter.
This belief has been echoed through generations, including a story shared by an expert on Seoul's traditional cuisine.
They noted that cattle fed on grain after the autumn harvest produced the most flavorful beef, making winter the prime season for dishes like seolleongtang (beef bone soup) and bulgogi (grilled beef).
The Origins of "Nanrohoe"
The 19th-century Korean text, Dongguk Sesigi ("Seasonal Customs of the Eastern Kingdom"), describes a tradition called "Nanrohoe."
The term combines the Chinese characters for warmth, brazier, and gathering.
This custom marked the beginning of winter, with people gathering around a brazier on the first day of the 10th lunar month to grill beef seasoned with oil, egg, green onions, garlic, and Sichuan pepper powder.
The practice was widespread among the royal court, aristocrats, and even commoners, showing the universal appeal of grilled beef during this period.
A Culinary Staple Despite Regulations
Beef was not just a luxury; it was also an essential part of agriculture as cattle were vital for farming.
Despite royal bans on cattle slaughter, beef remained highly popular.
Park Je-ga’s Bukhaeui mentions that 500 cattle were slaughtered daily in Joseon-era Korea, a number corroborated by other records claiming up to 1,000 cattle met the same fate daily across markets and shops in the capital and beyond.
The Royal and Literary Enjoyment of Nanrohoe
King Jeongjo of Joseon often held Nanrohoe gatherings to express gratitude to his officials.
His 1781 collection, Hongjae Jeonseo, includes poems written during these gatherings under blossoming plum trees.
Similarly, the scholar Park Ji-won’s Manhyudanggi describes the gatherings as vibrant yet smoky affairs, reminiscent of modern Korean barbecue restaurants.
The practice also inspired poetry from figures like Jeong Yak-yong and Kim Jong-su, who painted vivid pictures of winter feasts featuring venison, kimchi, and hot grills.
Such accounts reflect the cultural importance of food in fostering camaraderie and creativity during Korea’s colder months.
Evolution to Modern Barbecue and Hot Pot
Historical illustrations, such as those in Seonghyeop’s Pungsokhwa, depict variations of Nanrohoe involving hot pots.
These featured iron or brass lids resembling Korean military hats, known as "jeonrip," which allowed meat to grill on the edges while vegetables cooked in the central broth.
This method evolved into what is now recognized as jeongol (Korean hot pot), with recipes appearing in 19th-century texts like the anonymous Eonmun Husaengrok.
These dishes combined beef with an array of ingredients, from mushrooms and greens to nuts and shellfish, demonstrating the luxurious tastes of the time.
The Global Rise of Korean Barbecue
Today, Korean barbecue—known internationally as "Korean BBQ"—has become a flagship of K-cuisine.
In cities like New York, upscale Korean restaurants have received accolades from guides like Michelin.
Even traditional dishes like beef soups and hot pots have gained traction among younger generations.
This global enthusiasm can be seen as an extension of the rich culinary heritage that began with Nanrohoe centuries ago.
Preserving and Evolving Tradition
Modern enthusiasts of Korean food have created groups and restaurants inspired by Nanrohoe.
One such fine-dining establishment, "NARO," in New York, pays homage to Korea’s traditional meat culture.
These efforts ensure that the culinary DNA inherited from Korea’s ancestors continues to thrive.
A Recipe for Togetherness
Despite the challenges of modern life, the spirit of Nanrohoe endures.
Gathering around a grill to share stories and laughter, as our ancestors did, can bring warmth and happiness to even the coldest winter days.
Add poetry, literature, or even a touch of song, and the meal becomes a feast not just for the body but for the soul.
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